Ontario Rock Climbing

Jesse Wong
updated August 2019

This guidebook was created as an open collaboration comprised of Ontario's current generation of active climbers, local experts, guides, route setters, and all around good people. It features the best climbing areas in Southern Ontario: Mount Nemo, Old Baldy, Metcalfe Rock, The Swamp, Devil's Glen, Lion's Head, White Bluff, and TV Tower.

< 5.9
10a - 10d
11a - 11d
12a - 12d
13a >

Mount Nemo

Canada | South Ontario


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

CURRENTLY CLOSED! Turtle Wall is currently CLOSED due to noise issues. Please check with the Ontario Access Coalition regarding its status. One of the...

< 5.9
10a - 10d
11a - 11d
12a - 12d
13a >

Old Baldy

Canada | South Ontario


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

Old Baldy is arguably one of the best pocket-pulling crags along the Niagara Escarpment. Situated above the town of Kimberley in the Beaver Valley...

< 5.9
10a - 10d
11a - 11d
12a - 12d
13a >

Metcalfe Rock

Canada | South Ontario


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

Metcalfe Rock is an easily accessible cliff with a variety of climbs, grades and styles. Metcalfe is tucked away in a quiet rural setting with fine...

< 5.9
10a - 10d
11a - 11d
12a - 12d
13a >

The Swamp

Canada | South Ontario


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

Relatively one of the newer climbing areas along the Escarpment, The Swamp combines challenging climbs of all grades with a high number of routes to...

< 5.9
10a - 10d
11a - 11d
12a - 12d
13a >

Devil's Glen

Canada | South Ontario


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

Devil’s Glen has been around for quite a while, though only existing as a trad climbing area. A recent resurgence of bolting activity has led to...

< 5.9
10a - 10d
11a - 11d
12a - 12d
13a >

Lion's Head

Canada | South Ontario


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

The weather at Lion’s Head deserves special mention. Because the cliff faces northwest it doesn’t receive any sunshine until about 2 pm. Early and la...

< 5.9
10a - 10d
11a - 11d
12a - 12d
13a >

White Bluff

Canada | South Ontario


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

Located across the bay and clearly visible from Lion’s Head, White Bluff offers excellent ground-up climbing, a pleasant approach, and relaxing...

< 5.9
10a - 10d
11a - 11d
12a - 12d
13a >

TV Tower

Canada | South Ontario


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

TV Tower is an infrequently visited crag about 20-30 minutes south of Lion’s Head, depending on the final dirt road condition, and the vehicle...

< 5.9
10a - 10d
11a - 11d
12a - 12d
13a >

Cape Croker

Canada | South Ontario


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

Cape Croker recently re-opened in 2016, thanks to the Ontario Access Coalition and Dr. Harry Hoediono. For climbers intimidated by the height and...

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