Devil's Glen

Canada | South Ontario | Ontario Rock Climbing

SPORT
TRADITIONAL

Devil’s Glen has been around for quite a while, though only existing as a trad climbing area. A recent resurgence of bolting activity has led to several excellent routes being put up, making Devil’s Glen a great destination for all climbers. Most walls receive ample sun for most of the day, making it a good place to climb in cool weather, even early spring and late fall. However, the proximity of trees to the wall (many evergreen) means that the lower part of many walls tend to be shady, while the upper part receives ample sun. The main exceptions would be the Sun Worshipper wall and some routes on the east end. As with most Beaver Valley area crags, the black flies that come out in late May to June can be unbearable. There is a little spring around the midpoint of the wall for drinking water. Please note that climbing status is listed as “tolerated” here. Climbers should be on their best behaviour and stay on the main trail. Specifically, the OAC and climbers have a good relationship with the Provincial Park and the Ministry of Natural Resources, but this could change.

  • < 5.9
  • 10a - 10d
  • 11a - 11d
  • 12a - 12d
  • 13a >
  • Annapurna Wall
    2 0 2 2 3
  • Gully Pinnacle
    3 2 0 0 0
  • Gully Entrance Routes
    6 2 0 0 0
  • Ramp Gully
    3 1 2 1 0
  • Boulder Gully
    6 2 0 0 0
  • Old School Wall
    4 2 1 1 1
  • Old School Trad Area
    9 4 1 0 0
  • Sun Worshipper
    5 1 2 1 2
  • Elzinga Area
    1 3 3 2 2
  • Kathmandu Wall
    1 0 1 1 2
  • Nutcracker Area
    6 1 3 2 1
  • Changing Corners Area
    5 4 5 4 0
  • East End
    7 3 5 1 0

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