Old Baldy

Canada | South Ontario | Ontario Rock Climbing

SPORT
TRADITIONAL

Old Baldy is arguably one of the best pocket-pulling crags along the Niagara Escarpment. Situated above the town of Kimberley in the Beaver Valley region of Ontario, Old Baldy offers spectacular climbing with a beautiful backdrop. The cliffs are west-facing and tend to dry quickly. There is climbing here for everyone with grades ranging from 5.6 to 5.13’s. Although mostly a sport crag, there are traditional routes scattered across the crag with a majority of the trad climbs in the north end of the crag. When the summer heat is too much to handle, cool down with some climbs in The Alley, nature’s very own air conditioned gully. In 2010, aging hardware on a number of sport routes was replaced with stainless steel bolts donated by Mountain Equipment Co-op; an initiative spearheaded by the OAC. More recently, the OAC led another initiative with donations from various organizations to purchase the land just below Old Baldy Conservation Area, securing future access to climbers. For most sport climbs, ten quickdraws should be enough.

  • < 5.9
  • 10a - 10d
  • 11a - 11d
  • 12a - 12d
  • 13a >
  • South Pinnacle
    3 3 3 2 2
  • Central Pinnacle Area/The Alley
    6 8 8 2 0
  • Entropy Wall
    0 4 3 2 0
  • North Pinnacle
    2 4 4 0 0
  • Jamaican Wall
    4 2 6 2 0
  • Black Forest
    3 2 4 1 0
  • Hiss/Clint Eastwood Wall
    4 6 3 0 0

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