Lion's Head

Canada | South Ontario | Ontario Rock Climbing

SPORT
TRADITIONAL

The weather at Lion’s Head deserves special mention. Because the cliff faces northwest it doesn’t receive any sunshine until about 2 pm. Early and late season, the sun doesn’t come around until 4 or 5. This makes the climbing season a little shorter than most crags in Ontario. As a result many of the lines tend to seep a little later into the spring; once things dry up for the summer, conditions usually stay very good. Because of the exposure, the cliff dries incredibly fast after a rain. Another common annoyance is the strong winds off the bay that can make communication and rope management nearly impossible. On these frigid or windy days, White Bluff is a good alternative as it is more sheltered and faces a southerly direction getting early to mid-day sun. On the plus side, the things that make Lions Head’s climbing season shorter also make it one the most pleasant places to climb when the heat is unbearable everywhere else. Bugs are rarely an issue on the exposed hanging belay routes. At the base of the cliff and on the hike in, bugs are only a minor annoyance in May and June. Make sure you check hangers, nuts, and bolts, especially in the early season, as the freeze thaw pushes the nuts up and

  • < 5.9
  • 10a - 10d
  • 11a - 11d
  • 12a - 12d
  • 13a >
  • Headspace Area
    1 3 5 5 2
  • Lost At Sea Area
    0 1 3 5 5
  • Titan Area
    0 1 2 1 11
  • Mr. Bojangles
    0 4 3 5 2
  • Lord Of The Flies
    0 1 3 3 4
  • Beach Boulder Climbs
    0 0 1 1 2
  • Swept Away Wall
    0 5 1 2 0
  • Cumulus Wall
    0 3 4 1 0
  • American Bucks Wall
    1 6 0 0 0
  • Maneline Wall
    2 2 2 0 0
  • Nimbus Area
    1 7 1 4 1
  • Latvian Ledge
    4 3 1 8 0
  • Latvian Boulder Climbs
    0 0 2 1 0
  • The Fin Area
    0 1 5 6 2
  • Scalphunter Area And Stinger Gulley Descent
    1 1 6 3 0
  • Melon Ledge
    0 1 4 0 0
  • Ladyslipper Area
    2 4 9 1 0
  • Summer Residence
    0 0 2 1 0
  • Pigroast Wall
    0 2 1 1 0
  • Monster Ledge
    4 3 2 0 0
  • West Of Headspace
    1 2 1 1 0
  • Merchants And Thieves Area
    1 1 2 1 0
  • Tricks Are For Kids
    2 3 2 1 0
  • B-52 Overhang
    1 0 0 0 1
  • Storm Warning West Routes
    0 2 1 2 0
  • North Shore Routes
    1 1 1 1 0

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