Fifi Buttress has become the 5.11–5.13 splitter crack and well-bolted sport climb mecca. The topos provided here are to the mega-classic, multi-pitch routes. This area also has tons of new, high quality, single-pitch (mostly 5.11) sport climbing. There are sport routes on the cliff below this main wall (see pic on page 29). All single pitch routes are 35 meters or less. Developed by long time El Portal local Dan McDevitt and friends, Fifi is in the shade all day!
30 - 50 minutes. Starting from the western most parking space in the Bridalveil Fall parking lot (~200’ west of the bathroom), head south on a trail. This trail climbs up a hill and enters a gully that leads to the Fifi Amphitheater. The long routes are on the left side of this amphitheater. Additionally, here are many single pitch, bolted, 5.11 routes on the back wall of the amphitheater.
Most parties rappel their route to descend. Double check the topo to see if your route requires one or two ropes to rappel. If walking off, walk west of the approach amphitheater and down the first major gully, rappelling a couple of times near the bottom.
Leaning Tower / Wall of Ages Approach
45 - 60 minutes. From the bathrooms at the Bridalveil Fall parking lot walk toward a house sized boulder with a good trail heading up the hill beside it. Follow the trail uphill for a few hundred feet until you reach a boulder field (slick when wet). Angle up and right through the boulder field. Be patient, and look for the cairns that mark the path. The Wall of Ages trail heads up and left halfway through the boulder field. For the Leaning Tower continue until you come to the base of the wall where the trail continues up and right to a nice flat spot right before the traverse ledge which the routes start off of.
Wall of Ages Descent
Most parties rappel their route to descend.
Leaning Tower Descent
From the summit anchor, wandering 5.5 downclimbing or two, 50m rappels brings you to the flat area above the Leaning Tower Chimney. Rappel the chimney with one 60m rope to avoid dislodging loose rocks. The rappels lead to the base of the wall 250' above where you left the trail to head out on the Leaning Tower Traverse Ledge. Continue down the approach trail.
Approach for Fifi, Leaning Tower, and Wall of Ages
Fifi Buttress, Wall of Ages, Leaning Tower