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The Sharkstooth (12,630’) is the highest and farthest west of the free-standing towers in the Cathedral
Spires, and has the most elevation above any col. The Sharkstooth is easily recognized from Sky
Pond as the left tower in an impressive triumvirate that includes The Petit Grepon (center) and The
Saber (right). The narrow buttress to the west is The Stiletto, actually the south end of the Northeast
Spur, and is properly part of Taylor Peak. Viewed from the Andrews Glacier Trail, The Sharkstooth sits
directly at the head of The Gash. The pyramid-like formation at its left (east) is The Saber. The Petit
Grepon is not visible, but lies directly behind the East Col, the notch between The Saber and The
Sharkstooth. The notch between The Sharkstooth and The Stiletto is the West Col.
Approach: Routes on the west and south sides are approached from the Loch Vale Trail and Sky
Pond. Routes on the east and north sides are approached from the Andrews Glacier Trail and The
Gash. See p272 for more information on trails.
Descent: Rappel down the east side from fixed anchors (fixed pins with slings) and hike out via The
Gash: Find the first anchor in an alcove about 100 feet southeast of the summit. Rappel 150 feet to
a grassy ledge, then walk 100 feet north along the ledge to another anchor. Other anchors may exist
in this area. Rappel 150 feet to another grassy ledge, then scramble down to the East Col (Class 3).
There are two, maybe three ways to get down from here:
1.) When the snow is gone, a vague path leads north down the gully into The Gash. Part way down
The Gash, a cliff must be passed by descent of a snow gully near the middle, or by climbing down
rock steps a short ways to the east.
2.) Return to Sky Pond: See Descent 2 under the Petit Grepon (p292).
3.) It is possible to descend the narrow gully between The Sharkstooth and the Petit Grepon (see
Alaskarado, p287). Anticipate steep snow and rappels over chockstones.