Longs Peak - Lower East Face

TRADITIONAL

ICE/MIXED

MAP

The cliff band below Broadway spans nearly a mile and is known collectively as the Lower East Face. It is bound on the left (south) by the long snow couloir of Lambs Slide, and on the right by the scree gully of the Camel. Notable features from left to right are: Alexander’s Chimney (a large funnel-shaped recess); Stettner’s Buttress (the broad face and rib to the right); Diagonal Wall (the 1000-foot-high oval face below and left of the Diamond); the Central Chimneys (directly beneath the Diamond); and Chasm View Wall (the large orange wall below and right of the Diamond). Note that Broadway does not continue across the top of Chasm View Wall. Approach: Hike the Chasm Lake Trail to its end at Chasm Meadow, then hike west up slabs and steps to the east shore of Chasm Lake. Continue over giant talus around the north side of the lake and gain the Mills Glacier. During winter it is usually safe to cross Chasm Lake on the ice. Descent Options from the South: For routes ending on Broadway to the left (south) of Shining Slab do one of the following: 1.) Traverse south on Broadway and descend Lambs Slide (may require an ice axe/crampons). 2.) Rappel Alexander’s Chimney. 3.) Rappel from the top of the Diagonal Wall to the Mills Glacier. 4.) Climb Kiener’s or another route on the Upper East Face and descend accordingly. 5.) Traverse north, cross the snow/ice field above Field’s Chimney and rappel the Crack of Delight. Not recommended. Descent Options from the North: For routes ending on Broadway to the right (north) of Shining Slab do one of the following options: 1.) Rappel the Crack of Delight (100’, 150’, 150’, 100’). Find the first anchors at the lowest edge of Broadway, directly below the D1 Pillar. 2.) Rappel Babies R Us (120‘, 100’, 80’, 100’, 160’). 3.) Climb the V-Notch to the ridge crest east of Chasm View (5.7). 4.) Chasm Cut-Off (p106) affords an easy escape (5.7) from the far right end of Broadway to the connecting ridge between Longs Peak and Mount Lady Washington. 5.) For routes that top out on the ridge between Longs Peak and Mount Lady Washington, descend to the Boulder Field and hike out via the East Longs Peak Trail, or descend the Camel to the Chasm Lake Cirque and hike out via the Chasm Lake Trail. Alexander’s Chimney Rappel: (p81) This useful descent has a variety of old rappel stations. It can be completed in three rappels with two 60-meter ropes, or in four rappels with a single 70-meter rope. The two-rope version is described: 1.) Find the first anchor (two fixed pins and a nut with slings) on a ledge about 25 feet below Broadway. Rappel past one set of slings to a second set around a chockstone. (190’) 2.) Rappel down the chimney to another fixed gear anchor. (190’) 3.) Rappel to the ledges at the start of Alexander’s Chimney. (165’) Endless Summer Rappel: Find the first anchor some 200 feet right (north) of the Notch Couloir at a very wide part of Broadway; look for a three-bolt anchor just above Broadway. This is a rescue anchor for the Park. The first rappel anchor is about 40 feet directly below this, where the wall drops off, which is also the belay for the last pitch of Endless Summer (p85). Make three rappels to some big ledges at mid face. Scramble 100 feet down (north) to a two-bolt anchor, and make three more rappels to the Mills Glacier. Two 60-meter ropes are required.