This small cliff has a variety of fun, shaded climbs. So when High Wire is melting and you don’t feel like the multi-pitchin’ on the River Wall, head over here. For some moderates, climb Shady Boy (5.10c) or Shady Girl (5.10b), but if you’re looking to push it a little more then try Lockjaw (5.12b), a test piece for the area. This wall is north-facing and is covered by trees, so it stays shaded all day and is a place to find cooler temps in the summer.
Approach: Park 6.0 miles up canyon as for New River and High Wire (next page). From the car, walk east for about 200 yards. There was no trail at the time of publication, so scramble up the hill on the south side of the road. However the best approach is to walk just east of the crag (back towards Golden) before hiking up the hill to avoid loose sections of dirt. The Shady routes are to the right on a slab while Lockjaw is about 60 yards to the left.