This is the red wall across from Little Eiger and hosts a variety of slab climbs that are sure to challenge your footwork and slab abilities. Some of the routes are definitely harder than they look and never seem to have a positive hold when you want them to. Because of the nature of the rock, there are a lot of smooth edges and sidepulls, which gives the impression that every jug has been replaced with a sharp crimp. The hardman’s test piece, Pink Slip (5.12b), is a classic for the canyon, and has one of the best slab cruxes you’ll find almost anywhere. Also, climbs like Snakes for Snacks (5.10a) and Rattle and Scream (5.10a) will test your composure as you make your way through the runouts. The Red Slab is south-facing and is a nice place to come in the winter or a summer evening. It will typically go into the shade around 4pm in the summer.
Approach: Drive 4.4 miles and park on the left (just before the bridge) as for Rainy Day Rock. This is just past milemarker 267.5.Locate a fourth-class approach on the north side of the road and just east of the bridge. After scrambling about 15 feet towards the cliff, the trail gets nice and easy. Be careful doing this approach in the rain. This is not a good crag for kids or dogs.