For a nice break from the ordinary with two worthwhile routes, head downstream to Punk Rock. You can warm up on Wannabe Wall (p127) on your way here, then hop on Sex Pistols (5.12a) or Johnny Rotten (5.11a) for a solid pump on a long route. This is a nice hang out for afternoon shade in the summer time.
Approach: Drive just past Tunnel 2, going 6.5 miles up canyon, and park immediately on the left in a large pullout as for Wall of the ‘90s. Walk along the river, going past the Wall of the ‘90s lefthand turnoff. Head down a scree slope to the river, and spot a steel cable going across the river. The steel tyrol will trash a carabiner, so either bring a junk biner, steel carabiner, or better yet, a steel pulley. Once across the river, walk south/ downstream on an easy trail until coming into clear view of the wall and taking a couple switchbacks to get to the base.