This is the classic and always challenging wall in the canyon that will keep you coming back for more. You’ll want to make every route your new project with gems like Moving Out (5.12b), Sucking My Will to Live (5.12c), Public Solitude (5.13b), Squeeze Play (5.13b), Primeval (5.14a) and Shine (5.14a). Well, the list could actually be longer with all the fun link-ups like Flyin’ Child (5.13a) and Squeezing My Will to Live (5.13a). Whether it’s your first time or you come here a few days a week, it’s always a fun time. Primo faces southeast and will get sun in the morning and throughout the day, but is sheltered by trees in certain parts. It’s a great early day spot in the winter and a nice evening destination in the summer.
Approach: Depending on what time of year it is, the best approach can vary depending on the depth of the creek. Tyrolean: Drive 12.8 miles up canyon and park 100 yards west of Tunnel 6 on the north (right) side of the road. From here, hike 200 yards east/downstream on the creekside trail until reaching the tyrolean. Take the tyrol across the creek; Primo Wall will be about 200 yards up stream. Wade Across the Creek: From the same parking area described above, you will see Primo Wall across the creek. If it is fall through early spring, put on your waders and walk across the creek in the shallowest spot you see. Ice Bridge: During the cold winter months, an ice bridge will form across the creek just west of the main parking area about 125 yards past Tunnel 6. It is not recommended to cross anywhere besides the ice bridge because of thin ice. Hike In: To avoid the tyrolean or walking across the creek, continue another 0.5 miles west of Tunnel 6 and park by the bridge. From here, find a faint, loose trail that hugs the north side of the stream and takes you east (back down canyon) to Primo after a lot of scrambling.