Goat Mountain

Canada | The Bow Valley | Bow Valley Select Sport Climbing and Bouldering


This is a very modern addition to a big wall historically known for stout traditional climbing. This route tackles the face right of the Goat Buttress. It actually starts up an obscure and likely unrepeated route, established by Peter Gatzsch and Andy Genereux in 2001, called “Gatzsch Your Goat” for pitches 1 and 2 and again for part of pitch 7, which was only realized after the drilling began. Fluffy Goat Butt-face was established ground up over the course of a few months, starting early in the season owing to a particularly dry, warm spring. Originally climbed at 5.10 A0, it was then exstensively cleaned, refined on top rope and later freed at hard 5.11. The result of all the work is a well bolted, multi pitch adventure with rock quality better than most single pitch sport climbs in the valley. Keep in mind it is still the Rockies, solid holds become lose in time and there are a couple of ledges that hold rubble. The climbing is technical and steep with wild exposure on the upper pitches. Cruxes are often puzzling and the path of least resistance is seldom direct or obvious. A single 60 meter rope, 12 quick draws, 6 shoulder length slings and 2 anchor slings is all you need. Tough finger pads will also help! The route has a long season coming into shape on average years by May and is often good until late September/ early October. It is in the sun from just after sunrise until about 3:30 PM. Parties can expect to take anywhere between 9- 13 hours on ascent depending on your ability to solve the puzzles and your skills as a limestone ninja. The descent is straight down the route via 30 meter rappels which takes 2-3 hours. Double rope rappels are not recommended on most of the route due to the number of non-plumb rappels and prickly stone. Your ropes will likely get stuck. With the hike in and out taking around 3 hours, a single day, car to car trip would likely be in the 14-19 hour range. There is a pleasant bivi site just uphill of the start of the route that keeps things more casual if used. The site is good for 4-5 people but no spot is large enough for a tent.

  • < 5.9
  • 10a - 10d
  • 11a - 11d
  • 12a - 12d
  • 13a >
  • Goat Wall
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  • Deception
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