Mount Cory

Canada | Banff | Banff Rock

SPORT
TRADITIONAL

Mount Cory has some of the best rock and most extensive climbing areas of all the sections in the guidebook. The cliffs are formed by a steeply tilted bed of Palliser limestone that extends along the whole length of the mountain parallel to the Bow Valley Parkway (1A Highway). The climbs are mainly on steep slabs and walls, or in corners between them, and there are a number of unusual rock features. Near the northwest end, the 300 m long Cory Crack extends the full height of the face reaching a subsidiary summit of the mountain. To the right are the smooth steep slabs of Hoover Dam and The Spillway (both unclimbed) and right again the large, deep cave of Hole in the Wall. At the southeast end of the mountain is Guides Rock, arguably the best limestone climbing area in the guidebook. Its location at the end of the ridge has resulted in increased glaciation and weathering, and its uniquely sculpted features and outstanding rock give it some of the best climbing in Banff Park.
The photograph on the opposite page is of the SW Face of Mt Cory, as seen from the Trans-Canada Highway, with some of the major features marked. All climbs are reached from the 1A Highway using several access points. Details are given in the relevant sections.
For descriptive purposes, the cliffs are split into four sections starting from the northwest end of the mountain: 
- Cory Crack Area
- Cory’s Groove Area 
- Hole in the Wall
- Guides Rock

  • < 5.9
  • 10a - 10d
  • 11a - 11d
  • 12a - 12d
  • 13a >
  • Cory's Groove Area
    5 0 0 1 1
  • Hole in the Wall
    1 0 0 0 0
  • Guides Rock
    0 8 5 0 0
  • Guides Rock - Take It For Granite Area
    5 3 1 0 0
  • Guides Rock - Shootout Canyon
    1 4 0 0 0
  • Guides Rock - Eagles Balcony
    0 2 0 0 0
  • Guides Rock - Upper Tier
    2 3 1 0 0
  • Guides Rock - Lower West
    2 0 0 0 0
  • Guides Rock - Far West
    1 1 0 0 0
  • Cory Crack Area
    4 2 0 0 0

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