Rock Climbing Yosemite Valley

Erik Sloan
updated April 2019

Yosemite is a climbing Mecca. No other area offers such easy access to endless, towering routes. The vibrant climbing community, the amiable weather, the endless recreational activities here and nearby, the verdant meadows beneath the cliffs, are all just icing on the cake. Erik Sloan

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Leaning Tower, Fifi and Wall of Ages

United States | Yosemite


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

Fifi Buttress has become the 5.11–5.13 splitter crack and well-bolted sport climb mecca. The topos provided here are to the mega-classic, multi-pitch...

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The Cathedrals

United States | Yosemite


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

The Cathedrals offer everything from close-to-theroad, short trad and sport climbs to mega classic, multipitch outings. Popular! Approach Cathedral...

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Sentinel Creek

United States | Yosemite


TRADITIONAL

Sentinel Creek is one of the best summer cragging spots for 5.9 - 5.10 leaders. This is an up and coming area with two new routes established in 2015....

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Sentinel

United States | Yosemite


TRADITIONAL

The Sentinel is old-school crack climbing at its finest. North-facing, so shady till mid-afternoon,&#10;the climbs here are steep, splitter and pu...

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Chapel Wall, The Terrace & The Couch

United States | Yosemite


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

Chapel Wall, with many short, featured crack and sport routes, is an oasis of shade in the hot summer months. Park at the Chapel, or ride your bike...

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Glacier Point

United States | Yosemite


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

Scenic and lower-angled, Glacier Point is a good introduction to Yosemite trad climbing. With many climbs in the 5.5 - 5.8 range, including runout...

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Mt Broderick & Liberty Cap

United States | Yosemite


TRADITIONAL

Bold, adventure climbing with some incredible splitter cracks mixed in, Mt. Broderick and Liberty Cap are up-and- coming free climbing crags. The...

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Half Dome

United States | Yosemite


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

Climbing Half Dome via the Regular Northwest Face Route (RNWF) is one of the most coveted of Yosemite climbs. The climbing varies from splitter cracks...

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Quarter Dome

United States | Yosemite


TRADITIONAL

Quarter Dome is an awesome, full-shade adventure climb with a burly approach. The rock is less than vertical and fairly featured, though the cracks ca...

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Mount Watkins

United States | Yosemite


TRADITIONAL

Mt. Watkins is an incredible, El Cap-sized alpine bigwall, with a grueling half-day approach and descent. The pace of life back in Tenaya Canyon seems...

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Washington Column

United States | Yosemite


TRADITIONAL

Though dwarfed by Half Dome directly across from it, Washington Column towers over the campgrounds in the east end of the Valley. A clean,...

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North Dome

United States | Yosemite


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

North Dome, similar to Snake Dike on Half Dome, is a moderate adventure climb with a significant approach. The setting defines idyllic. The views are ...

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Arches Terrace

United States | Yosemite


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

The Arches Wall is the sunny, iconic wall on the north side of the Valley, which was named for a series of large, beautiful arches on the right side...

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Church Bowl

United States | Yosemite


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

Church Bowl offers roadside cragging, a picnic area with bathrooms, and a picturesque meadow right across the street. The climbing is mostly moderate...

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Arrowhead Arête

United States | Yosemite


TRADITIONAL

Arrowhead Arête is one of the best moderate adventure routes in the Valley. In a stunning setting, the climbing on the Arrowhead is more loose than ma...

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Yosemite Falls Wall

United States | Yosemite


TRADITIONAL

Old school, adventure climbing in a spectacular setting. The approach to the Falls Wall is long and arduous, but worth it. On the right side of this...

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Sunnyside Bench

United States | Yosemite


TRADITIONAL

Sunnyside Bench is a great place to get acquainted with Yosemite climbing. The few climbs here are classic, and can be shady late in the afternoon. Do...

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Lower Falls Amphitheatre

United States | Yosemite


TRADITIONAL

Lower Falls Amphitheater is one of the best summer cragging spots. The nearby swimming holes below Lower Yosemite Falls (there are also great pools...

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Five Open Books

United States | Yosemite


TRADITIONAL

Five Open Books consist of five large, right-facing corners, or &#8220;books,&#8221; just west of the Lower Falls Amphitheater. This is a grea...

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Swan Slab

United States | Yosemite


TRADITIONAL

Swan Slab has super fun, mostly 5.6 &#8211; 5.9, climbing right by the road and Camp 4. This is a popular toprope spot, though you often have to...

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Camp 4 Wall

United States | Yosemite


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

Camp 4 Wall is the tougher big brother to Swan's Slab, which flanks Camp 4 on the other side. Known for its stout wide cracks, Camp 4 Wall is convenie...

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Lower Brother

United States | Yosemite


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

Lower Brother, just past Camp 4 and right near the road, is home to two of the most classic 5.9 routes in Yosemite: Absolutely Free features three s...

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Ranger Rock

United States | Yosemite


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

Ranger Rock, located at the El Cap Picnic Area a quarter mile before the El Cap Meadow on (one-way) Northside Drive, with its 600 feet of beautiful...

< 5.9
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Shultz's Ridge

United States | Yosemite


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

Shultz&#8217;s Ridge offers awesome right by the road climbing. The massive Southeast Face of El Capitan looms above the crag. Perfect, sandy...

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El Capitan

United States | Yosemite


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

The Big Kahuna, the Mother Ship, Ground Zero, whatever you call it, El Capitan dominates the landscape in Yosemite. Short approaches, and miles deep,...

< 5.9
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Ribbon Fall

United States | Yosemite


TRADITIONAL

Ribbon Fall is one of the most unique places in Yosemite, and is not to be missed. Splitter cracks, many filled with grass, are everywhere. The wa...

< 5.9
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Highway Star

United States | Yosemite


TRADITIONAL

Highway Star is a splitter, right up from the road, toprope friendly, fingers to hands pitch. Park right next to the road / river just before (coming...

< 5.9
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The Rostrum

United States | Yosemite


TRADITIONAL

The Rostrum is every 5.11 trad climber&#8217;s goal. Splitter cracks in a knockout setting make this a superb, if at times crowded, outing

< 5.9
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Killer Pillar

United States | Yosemite


SPORT

Killer Pillar is a short approach, outrageously steep and exposed sport climbing area. The challenge is you start at the top of the cli&#31;, so...

< 5.9
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Reed's Pinnacle

United States | Yosemite


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

f you were only going to climb at one Down Canyon crag, Reed&#8217;s Pinnacle would be an excellent choice. Beautiful, splitter cracks abound, jus...

< 5.9
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Five and Dime

United States | Yosemite


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

Five and Dime is one of the only single-pitch crags in Yosemite that you can easily walk to the top of, to set up topropes. The climbs here are...

< 5.9
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Knob Hill

United States | Yosemite


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

Knob Hill is a good introduction to multi-pitch 5.7 and 5.8 trad routes. Low-angled, and convenient, this is a great winter spot if you&#39;re...

< 5.9
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Above the Cookie

United States | Yosemite


TRADITIONAL

Home to the famous 'Separate Reality' 11d and 'Tales of Power' 12b. Approach: Take Hwy 120 out of the Valley. Go through two short tunnels and park...

< 5.9
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New Diversions

United States | Yosemite


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

New Diversions offers athletic, featured face and crack climbing more reminiscent of the gym than a Yosemite crag. There are good opportunities here ...

< 5.9
10a - 10d
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Generator Station

United States | Yosemite


TRADITIONAL

Climbing options close to the generator station just off the road. Many climbs at New Diversions require long slings or cord for tying off chicken...

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Cascade Falls

United States | Yosemite


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

Located right in front of the Cascade Falls parking lot, this featured cliff has a few amazing cracks. The approach takes just a few minutes. Cascade...

< 5.9
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Pat and Jack

United States | Yosemite


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

This juggy, sunny cliff has many mega classic 5.9 - 5.12 climbs. There is a bathroom in the parking lot, and the approach takes just a few minutes....

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Jungle Gym

United States | Yosemite


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

Right across the river from Pat and Jack, Jungle Gym has a few great 5.9 - 5.11 cracks as well as&#10;well-protected sport climbs. This is one of ...

< 5.9
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Knobby Wall

United States | Yosemite


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

Toprope friendly, and dry even in a downpour, Knobby Wall o&#31;ers 5.11 - 5.13 sport routes. One of the few toprope friendly, radically overhangi...

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Elephant Rock

United States | Yosemite


TRADITIONAL

Elephant Rock, the icon of the lower Merced river canyon, is home to some splitter cracks below, and amazing sport climbing above on Killer Pillar....

< 5.9
10a - 10d
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Cookie Cliff

United States | Yosemite


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

From the Hwy 120/140 junction, go a little over 2 miles west on 140. Park on the left side&#10;of the road at a long, paved pullout in an area wi...

< 5.9
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Sugar Cookie and Cookie Sheet

United States | Yosemite


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

Sugar Cookie is a modern sport climbing area developed by local Brian Ketron. The climbing is featured, and the climbs are well protected. SC gets af...

< 5.9
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Roadside Attraction

United States | Yosemite


TRADITIONAL

Roadside Attraction is a fun place to try out the 5.12 grade in Yosemite. Right by the road, and easy to toprope, Roadside is sunny on cold, winter...

< 5.9
10a - 10d
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Arch Rock and Finger Lickin'

United States | Yosemite


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

Arch Rock has fewer climbs, but otherwise is equal to Cookie Cliff for top quality, burly 5.10 &#8211; 5.11 sport and trad climbs. Park at the en...

< 5.9
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USGS

United States | Yosemite


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

USGS offers 5.11 - 5.13 high quality sport climbing right by the road, and is toprope friendly. Park in a good sized, paved, pullout on the left...

< 5.9
10a - 10d
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13a >

Parkline

United States | Yosemite


SPORT
TRADITIONAL

Parkline, a half-mile long slab right above the Yosemite View Lodge in El Portal, is the winter Mecca for climbers looking for lower angled crack and...

< 5.9
10a - 10d
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Wawona Dome

United States | Yosemite


TRADITIONAL

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